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93 Points

Thursday, April 8, 2021 - The top of the wine-impregnated cork is black. In a weird way I find this reassuring. Some of my favorite wines have had similar outward appearances. ALMOND PASTE, savory, umber tufo, cucumber gin, lily pond, tightly organized. Sweet attack, high tempo, bouyant, bitter succulent herbs, aloe. I feel a certain excitement as the acidity begins to rouse. I immerse in it, and the notes of almond expand and gain weight. Rice proteins and starches. Musk. Thriving, muscular GREEN ROOTS. Tensile strength. Flexible. Whistle-clean, cool, linear edges. Where are those acids? Let it aerate. After all, it’s Chenin, and still far from its expiration. Freshly opened, it tastes best at 50 deg. F. By tomorrow, the acids will pop, and you’ll want to drink it at 60. I’ll try to resist draining it! But for now, it keeps hanging and changing: SALTIER now, muscat raisins, BROWN BUTTERED PEPPERMINT. Apple blossoms. STONE. Bitter stone. Lilac. Quince, certainly. UPDATE, 24 hours later. Yup. It all comes together. As remarkable as this bottle was when I opened it, I’d certainly rather drink it this way. At 63 deg. F. No hint of oxidation. Creamy, bright with boney acidity. This is a special wine. Drink now (with lots of air) – 2028.

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