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93 Points

Saturday, October 31, 2015 - Thanks to the note from XA below, I paused my perception that ‘09s were awkwardly closed at the moment...

Immediately, one of those affirmations that Vosne is real. Smiling taut blackcurrant quickly yields to quite intense red and black cherry. The superb, clean, bright, natural, concentrated, ripe fruit quality is revelatory in fleetingly evoking the liqueur character I dislike in hot-climate wines; begging the question of whether such are forlornly trying to imitate Vosne! This has a little integrated clip of acid attached to that characteristic; even if the ripeness calls for the fridge to enhance that pique of mouthwatering delight. Back to the nose, which is a meld rather than a set of components at the moment, but certainly includes subtle spice and red earth. Indeed, another surprise is that Lamarche’s distinctive red-leather oak is so well integrated at this age. That’s not the case in some of their ‘08s or ‘10s at the moment: I think the ripeness of the vintage is balancing well, and their 'oaking hand' was judicious with this level of wine this year. In the mouth: profoundly elegant. You could no more separate out the structural elements than you could pull the wine apart: it’s strong; a superior silk. That’s its substance too: light, firm silk; no dense, fleshy irrelevance. The wine’s concentration - and this drinker’s desire for contemplation - slow the drinking at the moment. Like a 1999, this will journey from blacker to redder fruit with age. It’ll lighten gracefully, and drink better and better. The balance and elegance will push drinking beyond the short-medium term I bought for. So it’ll do the job of protecting the ’09 Lamarche 1er and GCs I loved so much at E-P; and much more.

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