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93 Points

Friday, May 16, 2014 - I haven't tasted wine made by even a fraction of the world's great winemakers, but I'm still prepared to say that for my palate Paolo Bea is one of the greatest winemakers in the world. Each of his wines is so singular, satisfying, complex and intellectually intriguing, and this is no exception. Decanted 5 or 6 hours and it was still very tight and pruney, so I transferred it to a larger decanter and it really blossomed. Surprisingly if I tasted this blind I would be sure it was some bizarre old world pinot noir, which is not how I'd describe earlier vintages of this wine. Plenty of funk, that's always in evidence,- - only James Brown can compete with Bea when it comes to being the master of funk- strawberry,brassy blue fruit, cinnamon, indian spices, twigs, flesh and tart chewy tannins. I'll admit that this, like all of Bea's wines, might be difficult for those disposed to wines with a new world profille. But for those who like to travel a little off that popular grid it's a real treat. Best after a minimum of another 3-5 + years. BTW the 2005 bottling upon which I recently commented is an entirely different and even more enjoyable wine.

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