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97 Points

Thursday, April 17, 2014 - Billecart-Salmon Champagne, Burgundies, Rhones, Bordeaux etc with Sebastien, Brandon and Maciej (Museum Hotel, Wellington): Colour deep gold. Wow, the bouquet on this! I could happily sit with a glass of this in the corner on my own and sniff it all night. Notes of butterscotch, honey, burnt toffee, crème brulee, blanched nuts, glycerol, candied orange peel, with a touch of gasoline. And the palate delivers on the promise of the bouquet. The amazing texture hits you first: waxy, honeyed, tactile, oily and viscous. The flavours are multidimensional, in layers, including butterscotch, marmalade, candied fruit peel, Asian spices, honey, yellow orchard and tropical fruit, again with that touch of gasoline. There are even limestone and mineral flavours, with the palate finishing on an attractive bitterness, not on acids. The palate is primary, not oxidative, with the oak (apparently 10 -20 percent new oak) still visible, yet to fully integrate. High alcohol obviously but not obtrusive. Huge structure and very long. Easily 10+ more years in it. WoTN in a quality field, 97.

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