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93 Points

Tuesday, September 27, 2016 - 11,6% alcohol.

Luminous, medium-deep lime green color. Somewhat restrained and quite developed nose with aromas of stone dust, woolly lanolin tones, some aged waxy character, a little bit of chalky minerality, light wizened apple tones and a perfumed hint of white flowers. Overall there is surprisingly little fruit left to the nose. The wine is medium-bodied, very lively and quite textural on the palate with focused, complex and quite racy flavors of steely minerality, tart key lime-driven citrus fruit tones, chalk dust, some lemony citrus fruit, light apple peel bitterness, a little bit of woolly lanolin, a hint of wet stones and a touch of dusty aged character. The bracing acidity lends remarkable sense of structure and intensity to the wine. The finish is crisp, very long and surprisingly youthful with intense flavors of tart lemony citrus fruits, tangy green apples, some pithy grapefruity tones, a little bit of woolly lanolin, light old furniture tones and a hint of wizened apples.

Unlike many older Hunter Valley Sémillons, this wine shows surpriisngly little of those toasty and nutty tones these wines develop with age. Overall the wine is still surpriisngly youthful and quite lean, but it shows some developed characteristics, as the fruit flavors seem a bit toned-down and have a slightly wizened overall feel to them. Furthermore, it feels as though some dusty and woolly tones have replaced the fruitier characteristics as the wine has aged. I'm not entirely sure if the wine is still very youthful, or if it is aging on an atypical trajectory compared to a typical HVS. A wonderfully racy and distinctive wine, but not as impressive as the Museum Reserve 2006 that was tasted alongside.

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