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89 Points

Wednesday, April 7, 2010 - Simple Series III: My Birthday (Asia Grand, Odeon Towers): I am normally a big fan of Chevillon's elegant, sculpted NSGs, but you can almost sense the winemaker struggling with the abnormalities of the vintage with this wine. More darkly coloured than usual, its nose had almost CdP like stewed red fruits and cooked cherries scents, along with more conventional meat, umami, flowers and some integrated oak. Quite attractive in a rather new world way actually, but this was very much a precursor of what was to come on the palate. It attacked with a rush of toasty, almost roasted fruit, with a hot rubbery note at the fringes. With time and some food (grilled pork in this case), some cool cola notes opened up, along with ripe cherries, savoury meaty notes and a seam of NSG's stony mineral, all held up by some acidity and plenty of dry, dusky tannins. Very firm backbone indeed. More dried roasted fruits on the finish, some spice, some meat, some orange peel and, most unfortunately, a bitter, burnt woodiness that plagues so many 2003s. A pity. This was not a bad wine given the context of the vintage, but it never quite threw off the roasted, toasted notes that mark the heatwave year. Should get better with time, but it was not quite up to Chevillon's usual standard on the day.

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