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98 Points

Saturday, November 22, 2008 - This is the kind of wine that stops conversation and inspires awe. After hearing mixed reviews and seeing Juhlins' puzzling 85/94 rating I was extremely curious to try this soon-to-be-cult champagne. As splendid as Billecart-Salmon is throughout their range, especially the magnificent 1996 Grande Cuvee, this is better yet. The color is slightly dark with a brown hue. The pinpoint bubbles are infinite and there's quite a foam, but no sense of gassiness in the mouth. It's the aroma that is immediately and intensely captivating: brown butter, walnut, toffee, mochacchino, caramel; classic pinot noir (this is 100% PN). And once in the mouth, it's hard to swallow, the gustatory pleasure is so great. The flavor is as rich and dark as the nose suggests and the finish is long and beautiful. It's young of course, but much more open than many other '96s. There's plenty of bright acidity but the sheer weight of the fruit covers it, even in this youthful phase. An undeniable masterpiece.

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