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Wednesday, February 13, 2013 - 12 th Burgundy tasting - Reds part 2 (Rotterdam, Netherlands): Opaque-ish, somewhat more sombre medium intense ruby. The medium-plus intense nose is downright freaky and displays candied orange rind, bergamot oil (earl-grey tea), pain d’epice and some sweet black fruits, while the 30% new barrels are most likeky the source of a hint of vanilla… I’ve NEVER encountered anything remotely like it in a red wine! On the attack, this similarly Musigny-adjacent 1er Cru achieves Grand-Cru weight at a mere 13% alcohol. In the structural sense, the medium-big-plus acidity is reasonably refined, but it also brings to the fore ripe and firmly medium tannins which are far more burly than I typically encounter in Chambolle. Notwithstanding that, pronounced flavours of red cherry & blackberry, dried Asian spices, cloves and roasted meat restore balance on the exceptionally extracted mid-palate. It’s not until well into the expansive half minute finish that a hint of caramel manifests itself.We were wondering whether this bottle was entirely representative, but even so the matière here is impressive and it may just have been unsettled at this early stage. Given the extraordinary nose and its discrepancy with the mid-palate scoring it seems pointless, but a minimum of a decade in the cellar may see this wine reach as high as (firmly) into the nineties. For now, it’s Hors Categorie....... TN Mike de Lange.

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