wrote:

93 Points

Wednesday, June 19, 2013 - Piedmont 2013, Day 3 - Visit to Giuseppe Cortese (Rabajà, Babaresco, Piedmont, Italy): When first popped, this was a bit reductive and very reticent, especially on the nose which only slowly opened up in the glass to show a wonderful nose of orange peel, rose petals and dark cherries riding on a nice savoury backdrop of earth and meaty note, with a little curl of spice at the sides. When it got going though, this was a reall deep, complex bouquet – just lovely. The palate clearly had a lot of quality to it, but it unfortunately never opened up in the same way that the nose did, remaining very tight throughout. What it did show though was a nicely mouthfilling attack, full of subtle floral notes, with rather subdued, but crystal-clear flavours of red cherries and clean berry tones. I just loved the feel of this wine, super pure, transparent carrying depth without weight, with wonderfully integrated acidity and lithe tannins undergirding the whole palate, coating the teeth slightly just to remind you that they were there. It had a superb finish too – fine and lacy in spite of the grip the tannins had, with red fruit and earth and spice dancing away gracefully. Still super tight, still not showing much, so that the straight 2006 was easily the more enjoyable wine on the day, but this will be a great in a couple of decades. 93+

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