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93 Points

Tuesday, April 25, 2023 - The fruit is sourced from the Rio Sordo vineyard. Released only after a minimum of four years of aging. Bottle #10,795 of total 11,740 bottles. Lot number L0.167. 13,5% alcohol.

Deep, dark and still relatively youthful black cherry color with a faint, slightly evolved pomegranate hue towards the pale rim. The nose feels sweetish, somewhat tertiary and quite complex with aromas of wizened cherries, some beef jerky, a little bit of tar, light smoky tones, hints of dried flowers and potpourri and a mushroomy touch of dried chanterelle. The wine feels evolved, firm yet silky in texture and quite dry on the palate with a medium body and layered flavors of wizened sour cherries, some ripe red plums, a little bit of beef jerky, light smoky notes, a hint of tart lingonberry and a touch of tar. The overall feel is quite structured and sinewy, thanks to the high acidity and still quite grippy, over-steeped tea-like tannins. The finish is dry, quite grippy and somewhat evolved with a rather lengthy aftertaste of sour cherries, some tart red plums, light evolved notes of beef jerky and a little bit of smoke, a hint of farmhouse funk and a touch of tar.

A very nice, sophisticated and still surprisingly tightly-knit vintage of PdB's Rio Sordo. Aromatically the wine is starting to feel somewhat tertiary, but definitely not too old; instead structurally the wine shows relatively little resolution. I probably wouldn't age this wine for an extended period of time, since the fruit department is starting to feel like the wine is now at its plateau of maturity, but since I suspect the wine is not going to fall apart anytime soon, some additional aging might help in softening those tannins - although I doubt a few years are not going to do much if anything. Drink or keep - and be prepared to have something with this wine, just to tame some of that stern structure. Highly recommended.

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