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93 Points

Tuesday, December 15, 2015 - Prime of Life Dinner (Yan, National Gallery, Singapore): A real charmer of a CDP and (from a magnum) at a perfect place for drinking now. It started out with a wonderful nose, with meaty, earthy tones - roast beef I thought – shading a core of black cherries and sweet plums seasoned with warm, fragrant spices and fresh herb. There were some bretty, gym sock hints at the sides, but these added interest rather than distracted from what was otherwise a lovely bouquet. The brettiness came out again on the palate, but again not in large enough doses to distract from the wine’s better qualities. Here, fine-boned, ever-so-slightly powdery tannins and gentle acidity framed pure, expressive flavours of cassis, blackberries on the attack and midpalate, and then a lovely earthy minerality as the wine glided into a succulent finish. Neither the most powerful nor the most complex, but this was a real charmer, perfectly balanced and nicely elegant, showing all of the dialed-back presence and classic styling that I always enjoy in Vieux Telegraphe wines. A great drink, especially in the context of the weaker vintage.

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