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93 Points

Saturday, August 15, 2020 - A blend of Chardonnay (64%), Pinot Noir (25%) and Pinot Meunier (11%). Plots vinified separately and aged in used, 4 years old Chablis pièce barrels before blending and bottling. No MLF. Aged for 12 years in bottles before disgorgement and release. 12,5% alcohol, 8,5 g/l residual sugar, 6,3 g/l acidity.

Quite deep lemon yellow color. Ripe and quite toasty yet somewhat restrained nose with aromas of sweet golden apples, some creamy richness, light yeasty notes, a little bit of toasted bread, a hint of mocha and a touch of caramel. The wine is developed, refreshing and medium-bodied on the palate with bright, dry flavors of red apples, some rich creaminess, light toasty autolytic notes, a little bit of tangy salinity, a hint of chalky mineral bitterness and a touch of caramel. High in acidity with a fine, silky smooth mousse. The finish is complex and nuanced with lengthy flavors of molten butter, some apple peel bitterness, a little bit of tart lemony citrus fruits, light autolytic notes of yeast and toast, a hint of tangy salinity and a touch of mocha. The saline and bitter elements carry on even after the fruit flavors fade away.

This was pretty similar to my experiences with the wine from 3 years ago, but I think the wine had lost some of its depth, complexity and intensity over this time. Even though slightly less impressive than the last time, this is still a wonderfully complex and rewarding effort for a Champagne and a terrific example of a barrel-aged bubbly keeping well for 20 years after its vintage. I doubt the wine will benefit much from further aging, but most likely it will keep good for years more. Great value at 56,90€.

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