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98 Points

Wednesday, October 18, 2017 - Ch. Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande Vertical Tasting with Nicolas Glumineau (Taberna del Alabardero): This has been a bucket list wine for me for ages. So thrilled to finally get to try it, from pristine chateau stock no less. Wonderful aromatics that have gone totally past the fruit -- mushroom broth and cocoa nibs and other stuff savory and delectable, eventually picking up some nuttiness too. On the palate it feels more slender than the '85 or '89, practically waifish, but it more than delivers in class what it lacks in size. The texture is buttery smooth, the material fine as silk. All the flavors in the aroma are present on the palate too, with that cocoa nib thing adding darker grooves to a fruit base that's actually not quite as pitch-black as some of the other vintages. One of the main draws here is that this is a wine with everything. Practically anything you could taste in any of the other vintages is here, somewhere, though so well-integrated and harmonious it's difficult to point and pick anything out. The other big draw is its pure finesse. There is more to this wine than to any of the others, but all of that is spun out from material that's noticeably leaner than the others and impossibly fine. A Burgundy drinker's Bordeaux.

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