wrote:

94 Points

Saturday, January 9, 2016 - 1996 & 1999 Vosne Grand Cru Dinner (Holland Park): This superb bottle was a redemption after the rather middling 1999 Arnoux Echezeaux in the same flight. It had a lovely nose, with luxurious aromas of dark chocolate and dark cherries swirling around earthy herbs and dried flowers. A bit fuller and darker a bouquet than I would normally associate with an Arnoux RSV, but very nice indeed. It was marvelous on the palate – full, rich and powerful, yet effortlessly complex at the same time, with dark cherries and berries wed to deep floral notes and all sorts of interesting counterpoints on the midpalate and finish – violets and berries, chocolate and spice, I wrote – all nicely tied together with a great, fine-boned structure as well. Again, a bit richer and deeper than your standard issue Arnoux RSV, perhaps a touch less elegant and transparent, but this was a great wine. Delicious on the night, bit with its noble structure and a nagging sense that there are still little complexities that are a bit buried beneath all that generous fruit, I cannot help feeling that this will be even better in 4-5 years’ time.

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