wrote:

94 Points

Monday, June 19, 2017 - MNB: Old wines (Home (Noe st)): This is the strongest reaction I've ever had to a Champagne - I couldn't stop smelling it, and the detail and deliciousness on the palate were distractingly good.

Medium gold color. Aromatic, appetizing nose with developed fruit (ripe apples with slight spice, ripe Meyer lemon), and a rich chorus of autolytic aromas. Toasted brioche with slight coffee, parmesan rind, nutty baguette notes. It has an element of the coffe-like notes I'd encountered in the Bollinger RD and Dom Perignon P2, but with more freshness of fruit. This is more to my liking, stylistically.

The palate is supple and refined, with classic Paillard acid - high+ crystalline acidity. The mousse is fine-textured, satiny, with moderately-powerful bubbles (appropriately diminished by age). The midpalate fruit - multiple kinds of apple and baguette - is intense, almost painfully so. It seems to explode into a choreographed firework display of fruit and autolytic notes.

This might be my favorite champagne ever - it's clearly delineated and requires no effort to enjoy. On the other hand, the detail and depth reward scrutiny, and it also transformed in the glass - revealing different facets of both fruit and autolysis.

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