Community Tasting Note

forceberry wrote:

Tuesday, May 28, 2019 - A traditionalist Oloroso. The average age of the wine is 45 years, 20% alcohol, 8,17 g/l acidity and 1,87 g/l volatile acidity. Bottle no. 118 of total 4000 bottles.

Luminous, deep and concentrated reddish bronze with a pale burnished golden-yellow rim. The bouquet feels very powerful, open and intense with an impressive array of aromas of caramel, sweet syrupy molasses, some volatile nail polish character, a little bit of raisins and prunes, a hint of porcini mushrooms and a touch of smoke. The wine is full-bodied, very concentrated and noticeably heavier than the Bodegas Tradición VORS Amontillado with dry yet subtly sweet-toned flavors of apple peel and espresso-like bitterness, rancio tones of rancid nuts, some hay, quite pronounced alcohol heat, rather intense aldehydic sharpness, light saline tones and nuances of sorrel, a little bit of syrupy sweetness, a mushroomy hint of porcini and a touch of vanilla custard. Although the mouthfeel is oily and viscous, the wine never comes across as particularly weighty, but instead surprisingly lively and light on its feet, thanks to the exceptionally high acidity for a Palomino. The remarkably long, intense and quite warm finish is sharp, powerful and very slightly sticky with a complex aftertaste of syrupy molasses, some espresso bitterness, a little bit of tangy salinity, light rancio tones of roasted nuts, a mushroomy hint of porcini and a sweeter touch of caramel and vanilla custard.

An exceptional powerhouse of a Sherry. Extraordinary complexity, intensity and harmony here. Unlike the Bodegas Tradición VORS Amontillado, which is noticeably sharper in style with heavier emphasis on the sharp aldehydic character and other elements of biological aging, this is all about the depth and concentration that comes from the prolonged oxidative aging. This is something akin to an Oloroso concentrate with remarkable clarity and purity. I can imagine the elevated levels of VA might be a distraction to some, but I didn't mind them one bit. This is getting as perfect as a Sherry can be. Solid value at ~60€. Very highly recommended.

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