1993 Pio Cesare Barolo

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94 Points

Monday, June 13, 2022 - If there is a Barolo that can be called classic, it is the one with the "Barolo formula" of Pio Cesare. The wine has been around for almost 150 years and has always been a cross-locational wine, combining the best of Serralunga d'Alba (Ornato, La Serra and Briccolina), Grinzane Cavour (Gustava and Garretti), La Morra (Roncaglie) and Novello (Ravera). The Nebbiolo fruit, at least today, is fermented in stainless steel for about 25 days and left on the skins. This is followed by aging in 2,500-liter French Botti. Whether this was exactly the case in 1993, I can not say.

But what I can say is that the 1993 was a Berolo to kneel down. A wine for all the senses and the intellectual in equal measure. It still had a subtle, ripe fruit of wild strawberries, small red cherries complete with cherry pits and purple flowers and wilted roses. Equally present were the tertiary aromas of leather, tobacco, earth, truffle and the ethereal notes of mint and coriander and blood oranges. 1993 was anything but an enthusiastic year in Barolo with lots of rain, coolness, a stormy summer, a hot August and a changeable September. But this wine is simply delightful, soaring, fresh yet powerful, and a Barolo par excellence that should easily remain at this level for another ten years or more.

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