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Monday, August 13, 2012 - Lots of Loires: I sometimes feel like an evangelist of the Cult of the Aged Muscadet, but bottles like this make the conversion process almost trivially simple. Maturity has changed the pale straw color of its youth into light gold, but it remains playfully young on the nose, showing classic saline minerality that screams of the sea. It shows more of its age once I take a sip. The core of wet gravel remains, but now a layer of preserved lemon, accented by hints of honey, joins the game and reflects its graceful evolution. It is showing well now, but I'm in no hurry to drink my remaining bottles.

Another example that Muscadet from great producers doesn't just last, it ages. Not bad for a bottle that still carried its $9.99 sticker, but a little bittersweet when I think about other whites in my cellar of equivalent age that cost many times more and have long since given up the ghost.

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