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95 Points

Friday, July 17, 2020 - One of the last of a case (Christie's auction, early 1990s. £10 a bottle....) and one of the best. Inevitably there has been some bottle variation. The ullage was about 2in below the cork, which was soaked through. However, from the moment the cork popped out, the wine's rich aroma announced that this was something special.

The colour is a dullish garnet, not showing the age one would expect of a 35 year old bottle. The nose is impressive; violets, herbs and above all, spices, dominate, with a meaty undertone, carried through to the still rich and full palate. Some tannins and acid still present to balance out the dried cherry and prune fruit. The finish is perhaps the most impressive aspect; it lasts a good 30 seconds or so.

Is it in graceful decline? Logically, yes, and I don’t think there is anything to be gained by waiting further, but it’s far from running downhill to a watery grave, so no great hurry.

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