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92 Points

Saturday, July 18, 2020 - Cold-soaked with the skins for 6 hours, fermented spontaneously with indigenous yeasts in stainless steel, aged on the lees for a year, racked into 100-year old Brazilian mahogany foudres and aged for another 6 months. Total production 1600 liters / 3200 half-liter bottles. 12% alcohol. Tasted half blind.

Deep and quite concentrated yet still rather youthful yellow-green color. Sweet, complex and quite singular nose with aromas of salty ocean air, some waxy tones, light sweet herbal notes of thyme and peppermint, a little bit of overripe red apples, spicy hints of nutmeg and Asian spices and a touch of leesy creaminess. Lots of layers here. The wine is medium-bodied, broad and quite concentrated on the palate with intense flavors of tart lemony citrus fruits, some tangy salinity, light herbal notes of minty greenness, a little bit of sweet red-toned fruit, a hint of crunchy golden currants and a touch of smoke. The quite high acidity makes the wine feel fresh and structured. The finish is ripe and juicy with long flavors of sharp lemony citrus fruit, tangy salinity, some crisp Granny Smith apple tones, a little bit of smoke, light minty herbal notes and a hint of Play-Doh.

A wonderfully characterful, impressive and intensely flavored white Colares with very pronounced saline mineral overtones that are so typical of the region. Although clocking at 7 years of age, the wine is still a mere baby, not showing any signs of age. This is really built for the long haul. Delightful already now, but knowing this is going to continue to improve for at least a few decades, there's really no point in popping any bottles now. Outstanding value at 13,60€ for a half-liter bottle.

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