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87 Points

Saturday, September 24, 2022 - Originally Palazzo della Torre was made with fruit sourced from the 25-hectare Palazzo della Torre cru, but today only a part of the grapes come from this cru that was replanted in 1962. A blend of Corvina (40%), Corvinone (30%), Rondinella (25%) and Sangiovese (5%). Since 1990, inspired by the Ripasso method of Valpolicella, the Corvinone portion has been left to dry and the raisined grapes are pressed much later; this sweeter, more concentrated must is added to the already-vinified wine for a re-fermentation. Aged for 15 months in 2nd-use barriques, then blended and aged for 2 months before bottling. 13,5% alcohol, 6 g/l residual sugar, 5,4 g/l acidity.

Dark, dense and almost fully opaque blackish-red color with a tiniest bit of rusty evolved hue towards the rim. The nose feels quite bold, powerful and slightly sweetly-fruited with aromas of pouch tobacco and licorice root, some ripe black cherry tones, a little bit of plummy dark fruit, light notes of blackberry marmalade, a hint of blueberry, a touch of toasty oak spice and a whiff of jammy red fruits. The wine is dense, textural and slightly sweet-toned on the palate with bold flavors of dark fruits and licorice, some blackberry marmalade, light spicy tones, a little bit of blueberry, a hint of meaty umami and a touch of savory wood spice. The medium-to-moderately high acidity feels a bit soft, but the moderately grippy medium-plus tannins keep the wine firm and enjoyably chewy. The finish is rich, bold and moderately long with a slightly sweetly-fruited aftertaste of black cherries, some blackberry marmalade, a little bit of savory wood spice, light peppery tones, a hint of soft dark plum and a touch of blueberry jam.

A rich, bold and still relatively youthful Super-Veronese that was noticeably better than 4½ years ago, when I last tasted the wine. Back then it was a bit too primary for pleasure, making the wine come across as excessively sweetly-fruited, soft and not really distinguishable from a generic Ripasso. Now, however, the wine seems to have soft some of its baby fat and even if the appassimento portion of the grapes have given the wine a little bit of sugary sweetness, it doesn't really come across as raisiny, even with some bottle age. Seeing how the wine has improved over the years and it still comes across as pretty youthful for its age, I can imagine this will continue to improve with further cellaring. Not really my style of wine, but turning out to be quite a decent effort, after all. Still, I wouldn't say the wine is worth its price at 27,30€.

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