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94 Points

Saturday, September 10, 2011 - Decanted, put back into bottle 30 minutes later, opened 2-1/2 hours after that and enjoyed over 90 minutes at X2O. Peter X. Kelly's great restaurant in Yonkers. This is a wonderful wine that is no where near its peak. There is raspberry cream and the herbal underpinings of a Chateauneuf with a lot of spices, some pepper, and cherry in the background. The tanins are not as fierce as they apparently were three years ago, but they are still there with enough astringency and bite to let you know that this wine has at least 5 years, maybe more, to reach its peak. From the scorching heat of 2003, this wine is from fully ripe and intense grapes, wuith very dark color and its fair share of alcohol. However, the alcohol did not knock me for a loop as doe some other wines like this because the fruit and spice balance kept it at bay. The web site reports that the 2009 is Grenache 80 %; Mourvedre 10 %; Syrah 5 %; Counoise 2,5 %; Vaccarese 2,5 % from 60 year old vines. The 2003 may be similar, I don't know, but it is obviously predominantly grenache, as evidenced by the classic raspberry. This is truly outstanding. Glad I have 5 more. I will not touch the next one for at least 2 years and I expect it to still be on the up curve.

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