wrote:

97 Points

Saturday, January 1, 2022 - An extraordinary Champagne that takes a few hours of opening up before it blossoms into the bubbly phenom that it was designed to be. Unique without being an outcast, and instead a singular expression of the Pinot Blanc varietal, the Boloree hits that perfect chord where an air of "specialness" is confidently exuded; by the second and third sips, it instantly burns a marked memory into your brain noodle.

Exacting and sophisticated flavors of yellow Bartlett pear skin and green Anjou pear flesh, lemon pith, honeydew, wet limestone, chalk, and white flowers are so chiseled, precise, and pure, all the while maintaining a personality that isn't so sanitized nor geeked-out that it's all angles and trigonometry. There is breadth and depth of flavor that emerge over time, building body without becoming too fibrous nor sinewy. Finishes with needle nose clarity and freshness, relaxing its grip just in time to give the back end some additional expansion and intensity.

There is quite a bit of power here overall, but it is so masterfully tempered that it comes to fruition by way of persistence and keen potency. Directly compared to a 2015 Pierre Gerbais L'Originale 100% Pinot Blanc, this Boloree carries more profundity and complexity, though the Gerbais shows extremely strong as well. The Gerbais is slightly brighter and more lemony (and a tad simpler), but equal on the refreshing front. And bonus, you can actually find the Gerbais in the US without having to skulk to some random dark web auction site in Kyoto to find the Boloree.

97+ points for the Boloree. A Champagne that can indeed age 10-15 years with ease, but I love the electricity it exhibits now and with a bit of air (I use Riedel Vitis Cabernet stems). Disgorged April 2019. #56561645. BdB. 100% Pinot Blanc. 60+ year-old vines on the 0.2 hectares La Boloree SVD (22 rows plated in 1960). 2015 vintage. 12.5%ABV. No dosage. <85 cases produced.

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14 comments have been posted

  • Comment posted by MJP Hou TX:

    1/1/2022 12:09:00 PM - CB for the win! Cheers to you and all your wine reviews that we are so fortunate you share. The best is yet to come.

    Happy New Year my man!

    MJP

  • Comment posted by csimm:

    1/1/2022 12:26:00 PM - ...If you can find the Boloree, snatch it up for sure! Happy New Year my friend. Hope to connect up one of these days!

  • Comment posted by MJP Hou TX:

    1/1/2022 12:28:00 PM - Likewise Csimm. Would you kindly remind me if you're coming to Houston later in the year for a Chris Shepard event?

  • Comment posted by csimm:

    1/1/2022 12:39:00 PM - I'd like to think we can make that happen later in 2022. There was talk back and forth with Lite at one point. Crossing fingers Omicron and all that settles down for better travel.

  • Comment posted by csimm:

    1/1/2022 12:40:00 PM - Oh, for that event I was not going to be going. I think Cristal2000 might have been the one going to that, but I can't recall exactly.

  • Comment posted by MJP Hou TX:

    1/1/2022 12:42:00 PM - Csimm, would you kindly help me with a white for tonight? You mentioned some well priced gems on this list.

    http://files.pappas.com/images/dyn/menus/menu_2448.pdf

  • Comment posted by MJP Hou TX:

    1/1/2022 12:46:00 PM - That's right! It's Cristal2000 that is coming. I closely relate you guys on this forum.

  • Comment posted by csimm:

    1/1/2022 1:03:00 PM - There are a quite a few great whites on there depending on price-point. My thoughts for French whites would be:

    Vincent Dauvissat Forest (I’d stick with the 2017 or 2019 vintages – but I like the freshness of young Chablis) or even better, go for Dauvissat’s Les Clos. The Les Clos at $300 is actually a “bargain” and less than much of the open retail market right now.

    The Louis Michel Grand Crus are priced pretty good too for a restaurant wine list, but they are more linear and exacting in profile than the Dauvissauts. I personally would focus on Dauvissat for Chablis.

    The Mikulski Meursault wines are often very good too (the 2014 Genevrieres is recommended).

    For a wine with a bit of age, the 2009 Hubert Lamy Chateniere VV St. Aubin at $170 should show well. I love the Chateniere from Lamy.

    Those are the wines I'd go for personally.

  • Comment posted by MJP Hou TX:

    1/1/2022 1:10:00 PM - Excellent! Your time and consideration are appreciated. I'll report back on what we decide to go with.

  • Comment posted by csimm:

    1/1/2022 1:19:00 PM - Great. Looking forward to hearing how it went!

  • Comment posted by MJP Hou TX:

    1/2/2022 7:08:00 AM - Great suggestion on the La Forest! Such a great pairing with Whitecap Oysters too.

    I also stepped up on the 08 Heitz Cellars Martha's vineyard which I would have guess blind BDX.

    Thanks again for the pick!

  • Comment posted by csimm:

    1/2/2022 9:17:00 AM - Nice! Did you go with '17 or '19?

  • Comment posted by MJP Hou TX:

    1/2/2022 11:23:00 AM - 19 La Forest. Perfect match for the salinity of oysters. A match made in heaven. Our usual go to is Albariño, Granbazan ”Etiqueta Verde”

  • Comment posted by csimm:

    1/3/2022 8:39:00 AM - Outstanding! Glad it worked out. Thanks for the update. I have a few on their way for the cellar but I'm sure I'll tear into them soon enough.

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