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94 Points

Saturday, April 25, 2020 - PNP into Zalto Burgundy glass (“Root” day): Bright medium golden to the eyes. Brilliant colours.

Golden citrus fruits like grapefruits with peels, very fresh herbs, petit white florals too. Just about starting to emit hints of smoke but there yet. Fresh creme and sense of reduction described by some like “cool breeze” indeed. Hard to imagine how pure and fresh the nose is for this 22-23 years old cuvee.

Highly acidic (some traces of VA that does not bother, but the texture finally gives some hints on the age), crushed rocks like minerality. Quite lean in a nice way without losing any complexity on the flavours largely consistent with nose, just lacking extra bit of “fat” (in the form of exuberant fruits and smoky notes that one came to associate with the grand crus from this producer), but not to say this is anything inferior. Incredible length with lingering flavours of toast and fine spices.

Quintessential well-aged Chablis here. 94-95 points. With its impeccable balance overall I feel there is still some 5-10 years ahead of its peak...

15 minutes upon opening, 2nd pour: somehow more mushroom like notes started to emerge on the aftertaste. Really nice wine savour slowly.

45 minutes upon opening, 3rd pour: more reduction upfront and slightly more towards oystershells minerality at this point? Also even richer on the finish. Great stuff!

Slowly observed 1-4 hours, small pours: more burdock (gobo) notes and with a broader spectrum of fruits like orchard fruits like pears and stone fruits like apricots with time, gaining complexity and very flavourful on palate too. Retain at 94-95 points.

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