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93 Points

Wednesday, November 25, 2015 - 1996 / 1999 / 2001 Burgundy Dinner (Yan, National Gallery, Singapore): Very good, as would be expected of a Vogue Boness Mares, without really hitting the heights. This had been double-decanted in the afternoon, which I thought was helpful. By the evening, it had a beautiful nose, with light notes of earth and mushroom floating about a core of blueberries, and then drifts of floral perfume and a gentle spiciness at the sides - very Chambolle-like. There was a lovely clarity and delicacy about the palate, which again nodded towards Chambolle, with the finest tannins and bright acidity surrounding clear flavours of blueberries and dark cherries, but there was also a nice sense of power beneath that. A good marriage of feminine elegance and masculine strength – the way I like my Bonnes Mares. If there was any criticism, I would have said that it was perhaps just a touch of the leaner side, with the fruit giving way to notes of earth and mineral past the midpalate. However, there was a beautiful finesse to this wine, with a feminine, almost perfumed character coming out at the finish, where violets mingled with the earthier notes. All in all, a really nice wine. With the early opening of the bottle, this seemed quite good to go, although I am confident that it should last very well in the bottle for years yet.

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