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92 Points

Friday, July 2, 2021 - Deep gold, with peach and orange tones, letting you know what you're in for right from the jump. Relative to orange "natty" wines, this is very clean on the nose, giving you all sorts of dried orchard, citrus and pit fruits and sweet baking spices. It steers well clear of the "VA, brett and oxidation just give this 'character'" camp.

It sounds weird to say with this type of wine, but the nose is very much in line with the palate. All the fruit has a dried / preserved quality to it, with a strong dried apricot being the dominant note. It is accompanied by a slightly salty Meyer lemon note, orange zest, maybe a bit of baked apple, cinnamon, cloves and an unexpected dose of mineral notes. In a way, it feels like a collection of Thanksgiving and Christmas desserts. This drinks with a pretty high level of traditional complexity, rather than a grab bag of weird flavors that you can get in a lot of orange wines. The acid is there, but probably on the lower end of medium, although there is a good tannic grip, which would be unremarkable in a red, but feels more like a medium+ in this context. Drinks like a lighter bodied red. Quite long on the finish.

Certainly not a wine for everyone, but this is an excellent example of the style, where the unusual flavors feel intentionally crafted in a way that I usually reserve for Radikon and Gravner.

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