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95 Points

Friday, August 18, 2023 - The reviews on site are excellent. In many ways this should not be a great vintage of this wine - a problematic vintage in many ways. I also am not generally a fan of wines with high alcohol and this is 15%ABV. With Grenache that can spell trouble - porty yet lacking substance.

Somehow, despite the potential issues, this wine really works for me. The other grapes used in the blend keep the Grenache risks noted above in check, allowing good aspects of that grape to shine; high toned aromatics and sandy tannins. The alcohol seems to be absorbed by the wine and to the extent 15%ABV can be 'not really noticeable' then this is it. I think it contributes to a very appealing and complex palate texture, which starts with a hit of sweet, sandy tannins, followed by a slippery, velvety mouthfeel and then a finish of firm, sandy tannins. The texture can be a focus in its own right.

The wine is dominated by smokey, roast meat and charcuterie, kirsch and dark berries. The way these blend in the mouth is engrossing.

The finish of this wine is extraordinary in terms of length and the pleasure it gives.

On day 1 this was at first a little unintegrated but still wonderful. After a few hours it started to integrate and on day 2 it was really humming. Decanting would likely bring this forward a bit. I have enjoyed the journey but I think you see the best of what this wine has to give on day 2.

One note of caution - these high alcohol wines will tend to show some raisin and prune over time and this is no exception but at this time they come into the mix with the dark fruit, not instead of. Is it the alcohol getting to me, or do I actually start to find on day 2 some of the blue fruits that I love so much, emerging in the mix?

If your drinking partners love Bordeaux or Burgundy I would not open this for them. This is a potent CdP and it probably will alienate as many as it ensorcelles. A lot of wine lovers have very particular tastes and requirements, which is their right. I am a drinking Labrador; I love variety, or does it simply mean that I lack discrimination? Regardless, have you met many unhappy Labradors? If they get at this wine, you certainly won't find them unhappy. A wine for high feasts and holy days when joy is the order of the day.

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