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96 Points

Sunday, July 23, 2023 - Pleasant surprise bring from A_M, adding to my small sample size of White Rhones. PnP. On the nose and palate, ripe stone and tropical fruits, white melon, lemon meringue, marzipan, jasmine, white florals, river rocks, and brioche. Medium deep gold, full bodied, thick legs. Lightish acidity, no heat. Great complexity with VG++ intensity and persistence. While not as opulent or oleaginous as a Clos des Papes blanc from a year and half back, my closest recent compare, this wine was really a thing unto itself, even on a night when the 5 open bottles were so distinct. Staying just on the right side of the floral and aromatic but not sweet divide, this wine had an off the charts delicious factor, but was infinitely better as a cocktail wine than as any sort of accompaniment to the grilled halibut, but a night later, did much better against spicy, salty Chinese dishes. The texture and flavor profile, so singular and intense, pretty much guarantees that, no matter how much I enjoy this, for me, it will be destined to be a niche pour (um, and the tariff, too), which would be more likely to find a somewhat more regular place in my lineup with just a bit more acidity, savoriness or some other sort of counterbalance to its more exuberant notes. Drank consistently during the 2 hours we had it open and over 2 nights, so it’s likely to have a reasonably long, happy life, even if the 2039 date seems wildly optimistic. For those whose French white experience doesn’t make it much south of Burgundy, with perhaps the occasional jaunt to Loire, this makes for a great side trip, a most memorable diversion. 95-96+

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