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89 Points

Friday, July 23, 2021 - Made in a very Burgundian fashion: fermented spontaneously with natural yeasts, macerated for a whopping 6 weeks with the skins, aged for 10 months in oak barrels, bottled lightly filtered with a minimal dose of sulfites. 12,5% alcohol.

Dark, moderately translucent and quite youthful ruby-red color with a slightly plummy hue. Ripe, dark-toned nose with aromas of blueberries and boysenberries, some sweet notes of dark plums, a little bit of stony minerality, light woody notes of old oak spice, a hint of oregano and a savory touch of meat. With air the nose develops a subtle whiff of freshly baked licorice. The wine is ripe and silky yet pleasantly firm on the palate with dry flavors of fresh red plums and cherries, some wild strawberries, a little bit of crunchy crowberries, light meaty notes of umami, a hint of stony minerality and a woody touch of old oak. High in acidity with textural medium-minus tannins that slowly pile up on the gums. The finish is dry, fresh and somewhat grippy with flavors of tart cranberries and brambly raspberries, some stony mineral notes, a little bit of fresh red plum, light spicy notes of dried herbs and an umami hint of meatiness. The fruit flavors fade away quite quickly, but the other, savory nuances linger on for quite some time.

A tasty, pleasant and enjoyably serious - perhaps even a bit tough - Moulin-à-Vent. Although the wine shares many similarities to the vintage 2013 - the last vintage of this label I have tasted - this doesn't seem to be firing on all cylinders, but feels slightly more restrained and less impressive. I love how the wine is wonderfully dry, fresh and precise despite the quite warm vintage in which so many producers made noticeably heavier and clumsier wines, but still this wine is lacking a bit in the intensity and vibrancy I love in JP Brun's wines. I don't know if there is just some bottle variation going on or if this was representative of the vintage, but even though I found the wine thoroughly enjoyable, I can't help but feel a bit disappointed by this. While it was good stuff, it still felt a bit of an underachiever for a Brun wine. Nevertheless, at 19€ this wine still managed to deliver value for the money.

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