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88 Points

Thursday, September 23, 2021 - A single-village Chablis from the commune of Fyé, situated a few kilometers yeast from the town of Chablis, right behind the Grands Crus. Fermented spontaneously, aged in stainless steel tanks. 12% alcohol.

Youthful, medium-deep yellow-green color. Ripe yet quite reduced and slightly skunky nose with some flatulent sulfurous notes along and a little bit of struck matchstick along with ripe hints of sweet peachy fruit, a little bit of golden apple, light chalky mineral tones and a hint of honeyed richness. The wine feels lively, medium-bodied and slightly closed on the palate with flavors of chalk dust and cool, stony minerality, some tangy saline notes, a little bit of crunchy apple, light reductive notes of rubber, a hint of white peach and a touch of pithy bitterness. Fresh, high acidity. The finish is long, neutral and somewhat restrained with crisp, reticent flavors of tart green apple, some zesty lemony notes, a little bit of chalky minerality and a smoky hint of reduction.

For a relatively hot vintage, this wine was surprisingly lean, mineral and acid-driven in style, which I really enjoyed. However, the overall feel was very reduced, making the wine come across as rather understated and light in fruit. There's a lot of finesse here, but at the moment the wine is quite underwhelming and offers relatively little pleasure - apart from nice minerality and good acidity. I hope the wine slowly resolves and loses its reduction as it ages; most likely this wine will need another 5-7 years before it starts to drink good and many years more before it hits its peak. If you have bottles of this, leave them be; there's no point opening any now or in the near future - at least not without a proper, lengthy aeration.

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