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94 Points

Thursday, September 21, 2023 - Modestly wafty in the glass at this early stage in its life, it nonetheless shows great complexity with dark cherry, brambleberry, leather, sweet nutty oak, vanilla, and allspice. Medium bodied, it’s stout and sturdy with juicy acid and very textural tannin. The balance is superb and the mouthfeel is elegant and soft, but it’s more substantive around the edges; the middle of the palate is a bit thin. With more air – say, two hours – that mid palate fills in and the tannins get large, though the balance remains. It doesn’t open up structurally much more after 24 hours in the bottle. Flavors include cherry, blueberry, cassis, tobacco, graphite, seasoned wood, and tanned leather. With 24 hours in the bottle, the tobacco and leather expand their presence, and a bit of hard-dried Black Mission fig enters. Ideally this rests in the cellar for another seven to ten years.

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