2006 Château Labégorce-Zédé

Community Tasting Note

wrote:

86 Points

Wednesday, January 22, 2020 - Strong sense of tarragon on the nose, to the point that my first impression was of smelling tarhun / tarkhoun, the vivid green tarragon-based soda from the Republic of Georgia / ex-USSR, with a secondary minty note. With a bit of coaxing, some minor notes of sour cherry and sousbois emerge. But then I take a sip, and yikes, it's mostly green-herbal-menthol notes again, with a streak of tobacco and what comes across as poorly integrated oak (not on the hi-toast sweet vanilla end of the spectrum, but rather a tannic woody element that's not so enjoyable, especially without food). The more charitable interpretation is that it's in the mold of e.g. Sociando-Mallet, only not as good. Definitely not a high-gloss consultant-made modern Bordeaux, but also lacking the depth and complexity of a great bottle of classic Bordeaux. Nothing that spoke of Margaux to me. Aromas and flavors aside, the overall structure of the wine is good -- not flabby, not shrill, enough tannins and balancing acidity. For about €22 delivered (as a recent auction purchase), it's not a bad wine to accompany a hearty midweek winter dinner at home. I'll give my only other bottle 5+ years and keep my fingers crossed for a miracle (after all, a recent '71 from the same now-defunct estate was a modest pleasure no worse than this).

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