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94 Points

Saturday, October 17, 2020 - Celler de Capçanes, Peraj Ha’abib, Montsant, 2018: Since the inaugural 1995, this wine has been a staple of the quality kosher wine renaissance that started in the 1980s. Up until the 2015 vintage, every single release of the Peraj Ha’abib had been very good to excellent, and sometimes even amazing. In 2016, following the departure of Anjel Teixidó, Capçanes promoted Anna Rovira to the position of head winemaker. That vintage marked a major change in style of Capçanes’s wines across the lineup, with wines that were far more new world, more fruit-forward and not as firmly structured as they used to be. 2017 saw a very slight curve towards the more elegant profile we had been accustomed to. As a nostalgic myself of the traditional style of Capçanes, this 2018 is not only a sigh of relief, it’s a stunning beauty! What a refined wine, a homerun! Deep royal purple in color, with on the nose black currants, wild blueberries, black olives, Mediterranean herbs, clove, as well as a hint of new leather. Full-bodied, velvety, multi-layered and concentrated yet not overly extracted, with on the palate cassis, blueberries, blackberries, roasted herbs, graphite, saline minerals, medium acidity, with notes of beef prosciutto, tobacco leaves, licorice, firm, polished, grainy tannins with hints of clove and juicy olives on a long, elegant, and plush finish. This is a very complex, superbly balanced and structured wine, racy and sophisticated. Show-stopper. 15% Abv. Drink 2024-2033, possibly longer. 94-95

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