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92 Points

Saturday, June 20, 2009 - CT London Event (Hide Bar, Bermondsey, London): Treetops' magnum. Nose opened with a little whiff or varnish and a touch of funk that took a little while to blow away. When it did, it showed tons of flowers, a lovely damp soil accent, sweet truffles and almost port-like spiced-cake and plum tone along with lifted orange peel notes. Gorgeous, heady stuff. Very Pousse d'Or, very aged Burg, and showing plenty of Volnay characteristics. I thought the palate was rather tired and dried out at first, with dry tannins, sourish acid and that little rim of funk the outstanding features. Came back to the wine an hour later though, and it had completely transformed. Throwing of that robe of dry, tiredness, it had put on lovely old Burg characters of rich damson plums and tons of Volnay strawberries along with a lifted bramble hint. Finish was nice and long as well, with more orange peel, some spice and, when tailing off, just that little hint of dry, woody tannins. Can probably keep a little while longer, but that dry touch at the end, very reminiscent of quite a few 1988s, suggests that this should probably be drunk around now or in the next year or so, preferably with some food - a nicely grilled magret de canard would be just nice.

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