wrote:

92 Points

Saturday, September 20, 2014 - Hairy Crab Night 2014 (Capital Restaurant, New Bridge Road, Singapore): JJ Prum WS Aus 2006. This was served a bit warm straight out of the bottle and came across a bit muddled, but it grew with time and air until it showed really nicely. On first pour, the nose was dominated by honeyed aromas and sweet stone fruit. Over the evening though, more subtle shades of orange blossoms and nectar, the white chocolate and vanilla that were typical of the vineyard, and then some gentle mineral tones started emerging to make a nice little bouquet. Likewise, the palate came across very creamy and rich at first, full of sweet flavours of honeyed stone fruit – almost a bit too sweet. However, while this always lacked the cut and drive and some of the stirring acidity of greater vintages, it began to show a nice balance as it cooled down and opened up, displaying depth without weight and some power without heaviness. There were more little nuances as well, with shades of vanilla and white tea and acacia honey, then spicy mineral notes and just the tiniest little prick of citrus towards the finish. This is not quite as thrilling as the best examples of JJ Prum’s WS Aus, but it is a very well-made wine, especially in the context of its vintage. It needs time, probably another 6-8 years, but should do well when it sheds it puppy fat and the more complex nuances start coming to the fore. 92+

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