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93 Points

Sunday, September 11, 2022 - Not overblown but very persistent aromas of lemon peel, slightly bitter orange, a touch of peony and chalk, all very fresh and pure. The attack is along the same lines, crisp and acidic, with citrus fruits to the fore, then it subtly, seamlessly moves towards notes of orange peel, apple and mirabelle, without ever losing the mineral backbone and taut framework. Dry, but not teeth-jarringly so, this is beautifully balanced between the acidity and the fruit. The finish is just as pure as the attack, long and satisfying, but refreshing at the same time. Nothing overripe here and a mere 13°.

I got into chenin back in the mid-90s, my starting point being Savennières, especially the Baumards but also Closel and others, and I grew to love the crisp minerality I didn’t find elsewhere. But then things changed - starting I think in 98 or 99, I had increasing numbers of bad bottles, which eventually became systematic, and worse still the style changed, into something more flabby and honeyed - which in turn led to systematic premox. So I gave up and stopped buying any Savennières for about fifteen years (well, I did try one or two, but they were just as crap as the previous ones).

Now, with the changing of the guard and the new producers, Savennières and Anjou are definitely back with a bang.

This bottle was exactly what I hoped it would be - and it’s excellent value at 26€.

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