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93 Points

Tuesday, June 27, 2023 - 100% biodynamically farmed Riesling, sourced from the Gaisböhl vineyard, a monopole of Dr. Bürklin-Wolf and considered to be Grand Cru-level ("GC") by the winery. 12,5% alcohol, 3 g/l residual sugar and 8,1 g/l acidity.

Pale lime-green color. The nose feels clean, fragrant and nuanced with attractive aromas of ripe Golden Delicious apple and yellow stone fruits, some stony mineral tones, a little bit of beeswax, light spicy nuances, a perfumed hint of floral character and a touch of fresh pineapple. The wine feels focused, quite powerful and somewhat concentrated on the palate with a relatively full body and very intense, dry flavors of ripe lemony citrus fruits and fresh Golden Delicious apples, some stony mineral notes, a little bit of beeswax, light saline nuances, a hint of apple peel bitterness and a touch of yellow stone fruits. The tight, bracing acidity lends tons of structure, intensity and almost nervous energy to the wine, but thanks to the ripeness and sense of concentration, the wine doesn't feel too lean or high-strung at any point. The finish is very long, quite concentrated and rather incisive with a ripe yet acid-driven aftertaste of saline minerality and ripe lemony citrus fruits, some juicy golden apple tones, a little bit of beeswax, light mineral notes of wet rocks, a hint of cantaloupe and a sweeter touch of greengage.

An impressive, ripe and concentrated yet at the same time remarkably acid-driven Riesling. In our tasting of ten 2021 GG Rieslings, this was easily among the best and most impressive wines - for me, only behind the impactful 2021 Von Winning GG Ungeheuer. Contrasting this 2021 with the 2020 vintage we tasted a year before, I feel the 2020 was more impressive and while also youthful, maybe a bit more open for business. This 2021 felt a bit leaner and less expressive - despite being a bold and intense wine to boot - but that might be just because of the huge acidity here! In all likelihood, this wine is just way too young for its own good and it will just take more time before this wine is as open as the 2020. However, I'd say both the vintages seem to have tons of potential for future development and might end up being equally great with enough age. I'd let this wine age for another 10-ish years, because it really feels like it is built for the long haul. If there is something I want to nag about, it's the price - at 70€ this is starting to get too expensive for my preference.

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