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Saturday, August 30, 2008 - 15.1% alcohol. This is such a surprise of a wine. Decanted two hours before drinking. It's a baby. Black in color -- utterly opaque. Bouquet was a touch reticent before vigorous swirling in the glass. Then it came off with black and blue fruits, a touch of earthiness, and a hint of minerals. In the mouth, big, brawny, and round. Given the structured nature of the grape, the great thing about the wine is how balanced and almost elegant it comes off. That is, it's still big but not bruising -- there's big fruit to set off the structure and good acidity to cut through any hint of flabbiness that might be present. If there were ever an elegant giant, this is it. Loads of tannins on the finish. This needs time. But it's a great novelty and stands tall in its own right. A-

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