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95 Points

Friday, May 14, 2021 - No mention of vintage or ABV% in the label. However, based on the label design, the wine must be from 1974-1982 and most probably from the early 1980's.

Medium-deep burnished golden color. Complex, mature and moderately toasty nose with a seductive bouquet of browned butter, salty ocean air, some chalky mineral tones, a little bit of toasty autolysis, light mushroomy tones, a hint of damp wool and a touch of bruised apple. The wine is lively, light-to-medium-bodied and quite structured on the palate with complex, fully mature flavors of tart Granny Smith apple and bruised red apple, some autolytic notes of roasted nuts, a little bit of browned butter, light creamy tones, a hint of toasted bread and a tangy touch of saline minerality. The racy acidity lends great sense of structure and intensity to the wine. The finish is long, crisp and mouth-cleansing with complex, layered flavors of tart lemony citrus fruits and Granny Smith apple, some tangy salinity, a little bit of autolytic toasty character, light umami notes of kombu, a tertiary hint of smoke and roasted nuts and a touch of bruised butter that lingers on the tongue after the fruit flavors have faded away.

A fantastic, wonderfully developed Coteaux Champenois. At first the nose seemed too tertiary and over the hill, but the wine just called for a bit of breathing and after a short while the wine was firing on all cylinders. On the palate the wine is definitely aged, but still surprisingly youthful for its age. Reminds me a lot of well-aged 1er Cru or Grand Cru Chablis. Won't improve in a cellar, but will keep for some time more. Excellent stuff and a screaming bargain at mere 30€.

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