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93 Points

Wednesday, April 10, 2013 - Wine made with pretty late-harvested grapes from old vineyards. Fermented in small 2-3 yo barrels and aged in larger, 2500-liter oak casks.

Deep and intense yellow-green color. The nose is somewhat restrained, but showing tremendous complexity with an interplay of nuanced aromas of pear, white pepper, green herbs, wet stone minerality, some exotic fruits veering evon towards banana, some grassy greenness and very subtle hints of creamy and woody oak. With air the nose opens up a bit, but not much. Lots of concentration and obvious ripeness on the palate; even though the acidity here is moderately high, the mouthfeel is rich, full-bodied and even oily - further emphasized by 6 g/l of residual sugar, making the wine feel almost off-dry. There are very ripe and concentrated flavors of poached pears, honeydew melon, Mirabelle plums, some herbal greenness, a little lemony tartness, hints of white pepper-driven spice and a cooling touch of steely minerality. The finish is very long end rich, yet very fresh and drier than the midpalate with powerful and complex flavors of pear, ground white pepper, some honeydew melon and hints of mineral and herbal bitterness.

A super-rich, almost monolithic Grüner Veltliner, yet remarkably serious, structured and impressive one as well, showing tremendous balance between the rich and concentrated fruit and stern structure relying on high acidity, minerality and spiciness. Probably the biggest difficulty with a wine like this is to find food big enough that can stand up to it. This is definitely a nice, light and simple easy-drinking white, but instead one that'll call for something big and hearty. Starting to drink wonderfully now, but will probably age for a further 5-10 years. Priced according to its quality at 31€.

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