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96 Points

Monday, February 19, 2024 - A number of Australian wineries have display panels, protected from light, where single vintages of 25 or more bottles of the same white wine, eg chardonnay, riesling, semillon, have been bottled under good quality cork and Stelvin. While the Stelvin sealed bottles matured consistently and steadily, those under cork are all over the place at 10 years with the diversity of outcomes increasing over time.
So too do vintages of Bonneau du Martray CC a potentially great wine owned up until recently by a family led by a great premox denier even when presented with one in his own tasting room ! My experiences are consistent with everything demonstrated by those Australian wineries described above.
This wine unlike others from the same vintage is perfect with a firmly in place cork and clear pale green gold colour that speaks of freshness. The nose is rich and fine with plenty of lemon, lime and tropical fruits balanced by honey, cashews, white flowers and limestone in the rain. The palate is gloriously rich with a mouthful of fruit, flowers and pungent minerality that provides grip and persistence to burn. There is maturity here but no hint of oxidation or undue development. In short this is white burgundy that we dream of - pungent, long aging, savoury yet fruit driven and persistent. If bottled under a decent closure I would have continued to buy this wine beyond 2002 !
So that's 1 bottle of 7 so far that's fulfilled its full potential !

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