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94 Points

Sunday, June 27, 2021 - A special bottling of Bründlmayer's Zöbinger Heiligenstein Riesling, made only with fruit from parcels where the vines are pruned to a special lyra trellis, corresponding to approx. 20% of the planted Bründlmayer vineyards in Heiligenstein. 13,5% alcohol.

Developed, deep burnished golden yellow color. Big and rather sweet-toned nose concentrated by the age; bold aromas of honeycomb and beeswax, some smoky tones, rich nuances of lemon marmalade and wizened apricots, a little bit of evolved creaminess, light petrolly notes and a hint of peanut butter. By its nose, the wine feels quite aged, yet not old. On the palate the wine comes across as ripe, full-bodied - even somewhat oily - with a taste that is dry yet suggestive of honeyed richness along with rather concentrated and quite complex flavors of evolved, toasty nuttiness and cooked cream, some stony mineral notes, a little bit of beeswax, light sweet nuances of grapefruit marmalade and candied ginger, a hint of exotic spice and a touch of salty liquorice powder. The rather high acidity keeps the full body in balance and lends good sense of structure to the wine. The moderately high alcohol makes the wine appear slightly warm. The finish is long, powerful and focused with ripe, sweet-toned flavors of lemon marmalade and beeswax, some candied ginger, a little bit of stony minerality, light evolved notes of dried peaches and apricots and a creamy hint of panna cotta.

A bold, powerful and wonderfully evolved Kamptaler Riesling with lots of depth and complexity. The wine feels moderately evolved, yet not fully mature - there is still a little bit of room for further improvement. In an impressive shape for an Austrian Riesling clocking in at 20 years of age, most likely will improve until 25 yo or even older. Maybe not the most delicate Riesling out there, but I guess one shouldn't be looking for them in Kamptal anyway. A delightful wine, easily delivers for the price at 35€.

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