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94 Points

Tuesday, November 2, 2021 - A special bottling of Bründlmayer's Zöbinger Heiligenstein Riesling, made only with fruit from parcels where the vines are pruned to a special lyra trellis, corresponding to approx. 20% of the planted Bründlmayer vineyards in Heiligenstein. 13,5% alcohol. Tasted blind.

Deep and quite concentrated golden-yellow color with a subtle hint of lime-green hue. So very noticeable Riesling nose with somewhat sweet-toned and quite concentrated aromas of lemon marmalade, honeyed richness, some petrol tones, a little bit of exotic fruit, light cooling nuances of eucalyptus, a hint of beeswax and a touch of developed creaminess. The wine is broad, structured and quite full-bodied on the palate with a somewhat oily mouthfeel and rather intense, dry flavors of ripe apricots, some honeyed nuances, a little bit of evolved beeswax and light creamy nuances, a hint of stony minerality and a touch of candied ginger. The bright, high acidity lends good sense of structure to the wine and keeps its big body nicely in check. The finish is ripe, juicy and somewhat sweet-toned with concentrated flavors of honeydew melon and peach, some grapefruit marmalade, light stony mineral notes, a little bit of beeswax and an evolved hint of creaminess. The high alcohol shows ever so slightly.

A very big, concentrated and thoroughly impressive powerhouse of a Riesling. Tasting this wine blind, there was no possibility whatsoever that this wine wouldn't be Riesling - even though it was atypically big and concentrated, it had all the textbook aromas of a classic Riesling with some age. Seeing how it is very unlikely a wine this big and ripe would come from Germany, I thought this must be either an Alsatian Grand Cru or Austrian Riesling. My final guess was a 15-20 yo Riesling from Niederösterreich, most likely from Kamptal. And it turned out I was not only almost correct (the wine was 21 years old), it was also a wine I had had just a few months ago! Well, just like that wine was, this was still a superb wine and great value at 35€.

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