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94 Points

Thursday, September 18, 2014 - Tasting this wine blind, I would have identified it as a Meursault, which makes the richest, most complex, silkiest, and full bodied Chardonnays in France. Swirling the wine leaves a top ring around the glass, which falls down in very slow moving legs about 1/2 inch and stops, in utter contrast to most Chardonnays whose legs sink back down very rapidly into the wine. That unusually viscous character frames the distinctiveness of this vintage of this wine. The vineyard is also one of the few in Burgundy that has pure black slate soil. The slate soil affects the wine in two main ways - a higher acidity and a citrus taste that is lime rather the lemon French Chardonnay usually gets on limestone soil. The central flavor is a lime oil which infuses the smell, coats the entire mouth, when swallowed, leaves an almost endless aftertaste. The wine also has a lovely layer of honeysuckle and vanilla. The pervasive silkiness of the texture keeps the wine from having the lighter fluid dryness of much French Chardonnay. Although made similarly to big rich Chardonnays from California, with full malolactic fermentation and extended aging in new French oak, you would never mistake this for California. Its ages longer and better, its lime acidity keeps it from ever getting flabby, and it never gets as deeply into tropical flavors like guava, mango, and pineapple. At 12 years old, utterly savory.

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