2006 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo

Community Tasting Note

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96 Points

Sunday, December 29, 2013 - Make sure to air this wine for at least three-four hours in a decanter, but follow the wine if you can. The immediate nose puts me in a very fresh and balsamic herbs garden. The typical seductive fragrant roses follows, but here they are very seductive and intense, and of course tar. Moreover, the base offers saline mushrooms, some glue, licorice, leather jacket, very intense, vibrant minerals, distinct conserved raspberry and complex, fresh fruit of which blackberry is the most prominent. The nose is so complex, seductively fresh and deep that you just want to sit and discover it further for a while.
After hours of airing in a decanter, the today somewhat gnarly and energetic acidity calms down tremendously and then you can enjoy really pure and deep layers of fruit. Furthermore, the mid palate offers grape-peel, shale, dry licorice root, fennel and very balsamic herbs. Texture is fine sandy, unexpectedly almost velvety, and the quality of the tannins is impressively ripe and chewy. Concentration is impressive, structure is weightlessly of medium power, body is on the slim side and it is very persistent. The only tiny remark is the little austere tone in the end, but I think this is will go away with time. And again, Mascarello makes it clear that harsh, hard tannins should never be associated with traditionally made barolos. In fact, they are very approachable already at this stage. I am pretty sure that they harvested relatively early this year and still rendered ripe tannins, which could explain the approachability somewhat.

After a really impressive and complex nose, the overall impression is that this is a fantastically detailed and balanced wine even though it is still a baby, offering depth and purity of fruit with a rare concentration and elegance. Open 2017.

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