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98 Points

Monday, May 8, 2017 - Bottled in 1975, after 75 years of aging in casks.

Luminous dark mahogany brown color with a hint of haziness. Sweet nose that feels somewhat dominated by a volatile aroma of nail polish that persists, even though the wine has been decanted for some hours before the tasting - although a decanting period of one week would've been more appropriate for a wine like this. Apart from the sweet volatile lift, there are aromas of perfumed floral notes, some chocolate and mocha nuances, a little peanut butter and hints of raisins, prunes and poached pears. On the palate the wine feels very sweet, full-bodied and rich with oily, mouth-filling texture. There are incredibly complex, intense and remarkably concentrated flavors of syrup, molasses, peanut butter, apple jam, balsamico, some lemony tang, perfumed floral nuances, a little clove-driven christmas spices and hints of crushed peppercorns and roasted Moroccan spices. Underneath all these flavors runs a delicate undercurrent of sweet volatility. Although the wine feels sweet and a little sticky, it is remarkably lively and bright, all thanks to its noticeably high, racy acidity. The finish is incredibly long, rich and complex with moderate sweetness that becomes more dry and savory with time. There are layered flavors of coffee chocolate, burnt sugar, lemon pith, roasted almonds, toffee, caramel, peanut butter, some bruised apple, a little bit of sweet, balsamic volatile character, hints of cloves and a touch of roasted chestnuts in the aftertaste.

A really stunning Madeira with incredible complexity, lovely floral edge and wonderful touch of volatility that only added to the depth and richness of the wine. In a tasting of Madeiras from 1973 until 1895 this was a favorite of many, but for me, the wine of the night was Oliveiras Malvazia 1895 with its incredibly harmonious character, a bit lower sweetness and higher acidity. Yet, this was not only one of the most stunning wines of that night, but also one of the most remarkable wines I've ever had. A breathtaking wine, priced more or less according to its quality at 700€.

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