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98 Points

Wednesday, February 1, 2017 - From a 0,7 liter bottle.

Remarkably youthful appearance for its age: moderately deep and luminous yellow-green color. The nose feels somewhat underwhelming and slightly dusty with light aromas of dried stone fruits, some tertiary buttery tones and a hint of lemon marmalade. The wine is remarkably rich, concentrated and relatively big on the palate with its somewhat weighty, moderately full-body and oily mouthfeel, yet the wine feels poised and surprisingly sleek at the same time, due to its high, racy acidity. There are medium-sweet flavors of lemony citrus fruits, some wizened apricot, a little bit of apple peel bitterness, light beeswaxy character, a hint of developed buttery character and a touch of juicy ripe nectarine. The finish is lively, long and complex with intense medium-dry flavors of honey, some pineapple, a little bit of apple juice concentrate, light stony minerality, a hint of lemon marmalade and a developed touch of creaminess.

Although the nose is rather understated here, the wine on the palate is everything but. In a tasting of assorted Dönnhoff wines from 1994-1983, this was among the most impressive with its beautiful, developed complexity and incredible interplay between the sweetness and the acidity. A beautiful Riesling Spätlese in all aspects and definitely a unique experience. I'm not sure if the wine will develop from here, but I have no doubts it will keep just fine for many more years. Very highly recommended.

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