Varietal Article

Varietal character (Appellation America)
One of the traditional “Bordeaux varietals”, Malbec has
characteristics that fall somewhere between Cabernet
Sauvignon and Merlot. A midseason ripener, it can bring very
deep color, ample tannin, and a particular plum-like flavor
component to add complexity to claret blends. Malbec is a
finicky vine whose fruit is prone to rot and mildew in the cool,
damp coastal climate of Bordeaux. But ask a Bordelais grower
why there’s no Malbec around, and you’ll more likely get a dismissive
shrug and sniff than a viticultural analysis.
It is known in much of France as Côt, and, in Cahors, also
as Auxerrois. There are in fact hundreds of local synonyms,
since Malbec at one time was widely planted all over the country.
Sensitivity to frost and proclivity to shatter or coulure (a disease
that results in premature fruit drop) is the primary reason
that Malbec has become a decreasing factor in most of France.
Although plantings in the Medoc have decreased by over twothirds
since the mid-twentieth century, Malbec is now the
dominant red varietal in the Cahors area. The Appellation
Controlée regulations for Cahors require a minimum content
of 70%. Malbec is also planted in Chile, and there’s relatively
little and recent acreage in California and Australia. It is usually
blended with other red varietals in these countries.
But Malbec truly comes into its own in Argentina, where
it is the major red varietal planted. Much of the Malbec vines
there were transplanted from Europe prior to the outbreak of
phylloxera and most is therefore ungrafted, on its own roots.
Sadly, over the years the bug infested Argentina, too, and vineyards
are being replanted on resistant rootstock. Happily, the
vines thrive in the arid climate of the Mendoza region in the
foothills of the Andes. Made in the context of this South
American nation’s Spanish and Italian heritage, it produces a
delicious wine that has almost nothing in common with
Bordeaux except the color.
Argentines often spell it “Malbeck” and make wines from it
that are slightly similar in flavor to those made in Europe, but
with softer, lusher structure, more like New World Merlot.
Another difference is that where French examples are usually
considered short-lived, Argentine Malbecs seem to age fairly well.
Successful Argentine Malbec growers claim that, in order
to develop full maturity and distinction, Malbec needs “hang
time” even after sugar levels indicate ripeness. Otherwise,
immature Malbec can be very “green” tasting, without its
characteristic notes of plum and anise.
Malbec in Argentina has come to be appreciated for a
spicy white pepper characteristic, the aroma of violets, and
sweet, jammy fruit. It is a seductive wine that is typically warm
and generous in the mouth, with plenty of flesh, and very
appealing when young. Almost always producing a ripe and
fruity, even plummy wine, Malbec can take oak aging or show
well without it; it’s juicy and quaffable when young but can
benefit from aging, developing an intriguing complexity with
time in the bottle. It can range in price from as little as $7 to
more than $75.
The true potential of Argentine Malbec, and indeed in the
entire spectrum of Argentine wines, is demonstrated by the
fact that many of the world’s most renowned winemakers
have come to Argentina to make wine. Both the legendary
California winemaker Paul Hobbs, and Michel Rolland of
Bordeaux, one of the world’s most famous winemakers, have
created very high-end Malbecs.
It may be the Italian component in the country’s mixed
Latin family tree that fosters the fact that Malbec is an exceptional
companion with a broad range of food. Its well-balanced
fruit-and-acid profile makes it a natural with rare beef
(bear in mind that Argentina is cattle country), but it’s just as
good with simple fare from burgers to fried chicken. Because
if its balance and fruit, good pairings include cajun cuisine, calzones,
cannelloni with meat, poultry, vegetable couscous, steak
creole, Greek cuisine, deviled eggs, hummus, Indian cuisine,
leg of lamb, Mexican cuisine with meat and chicken, pâté,
spinach soufflé, and pasta. For cheeses, think of harder styles
that are either waxed or oiled, such as Parmigiano Reggiano,
Ricotta Salata, Romano, Asiago, Pont l’Eveque, Gruyere,
Manchego, Cantal, Comte, old Gouda, old Cheddar,
Baulderstone, Beaufort, Leicester, aged Chesire, Chevre Noir,
Wensleydale, Tilsit, Iberico, Mahon, Roncal, and Mizithra.