Wine Article
2015 Once & Future Wine Mataro Oakley Road Vineyard
Last edited on 2/3/2018 by KTM1253
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Mataro is the name Mourvedre, the famous grape of Bandol, is known by in California. The Mataro grape has been planted in California since the 1870’s, mostly as an adjunct in blends were Zinfandel dominated. Though scarce, there are a few places where Mataro is an exceptional standalone grape. One of those places is Oakley. In the eastern rain shadow of Mount Diablo near the San Joaquin river, vines on the own roots planted to sand dune like soils in the late 1800’s and early 1900’s still produce some of the most interesting and highly regarded Mataro in California. The soils are so sandy that early growers in this region were disparaged as Sand-Lappers. Little did those wags know that the delta sands with their Phylloxera inhibiting properties would be the key to the survival of these amazing 100 plus year old, own rooted, unirrigated vines.
The micro climate of Oakley allows grapes to ripen early. It is not so much that it is hot during the growing months, the average temperature is about 74 degrees with the nights being in the mid 50’s and the days being in the 90’s during the month of July and August, it is that the sandy soils warm begins in the year than most other areas in California and vine growth starts sooner. As the season progresses the grapes continue to ripen consistently, in spite of the cooling maritime winds from the Carquinez straits, due to the reflected sun from the Antioch sandy soils. These are the kinds of conditions that are perfect for a slow ripening grape like Mataro.
The resulting wines can be, in a word, graceful. The smoky, soft cherry, plum flavors are well developed and full, the acid perfectly balanced and the tannins soft and round. The combination of own roots , old vines, deep sandy soils and cooling afternoon breezes seems to encourage gentle, suave wines. While some winemakers like to make big powerful dark wines from these grapes though I believe the wines are much more enjoyable, interesting, complex and finer when picked earlier.
These Oakley Road vines may not be around much longer. This part of Contra Costa (CoCo for short) is changing rapidly. It has been an industrial back water for a long time. High tension electrical lines, a PG&E power plant, motels that rent by the hour stand in contrast to an inordinate number of churches, and an increasing number of fast food restaurants populate a disjointed human landscape. There is increasing urbanization as roads are widened and BART pushes east. A number of these vineyards are for sale with inflated land prices having been designated as commercial land, land costs that are more compatible with strip malls than farming. For now, the vines remain in the ground producing viticultural treasure. For now, we continue to make lovely wine and cherish our moment.
Mataro is the name Mourvedre, the famous grape of Bandol, is known by in California. The Mataro grape has been planted in California since the 1870’s, mostly as an adjunct in blends were Zinfandel dominated. Though scarce, there are a few places where Mataro is an exceptional standalone grape. One of those places is Oakley. In the eastern rain shadow of Mount Diablo near the San Joaquin river, vines on the own roots planted to sand dune like soils in the late 1800’s and early 1900’s still produce some of the most interesting and highly regarded Mataro in California. The soils are so sandy that early growers in this region were disparaged as Sand-Lappers. Little did those wags know that the delta sands with their Phylloxera inhibiting properties would be the key to the survival of these amazing 100 plus year old, own rooted, unirrigated vines.
The micro climate of Oakley allows grapes to ripen early. It is not so much that it is hot during the growing months, the average temperature is about 74 degrees with the nights being in the mid 50’s and the days being in the 90’s during the month of July and August, it is that the sandy soils warm begins in the year than most other areas in California and vine growth starts sooner. As the season progresses the grapes continue to ripen consistently, in spite of the cooling maritime winds from the Carquinez straits, due to the reflected sun from the Antioch sandy soils. These are the kinds of conditions that are perfect for a slow ripening grape like Mataro.
The resulting wines can be, in a word, graceful. The smoky, soft cherry, plum flavors are well developed and full, the acid perfectly balanced and the tannins soft and round. The combination of own roots , old vines, deep sandy soils and cooling afternoon breezes seems to encourage gentle, suave wines. While some winemakers like to make big powerful dark wines from these grapes though I believe the wines are much more enjoyable, interesting, complex and finer when picked earlier.
These Oakley Road vines may not be around much longer. This part of Contra Costa (CoCo for short) is changing rapidly. It has been an industrial back water for a long time. High tension electrical lines, a PG&E power plant, motels that rent by the hour stand in contrast to an inordinate number of churches, and an increasing number of fast food restaurants populate a disjointed human landscape. There is increasing urbanization as roads are widened and BART pushes east. A number of these vineyards are for sale with inflated land prices having been designated as commercial land, land costs that are more compatible with strip malls than farming. For now, the vines remain in the ground producing viticultural treasure. For now, we continue to make lovely wine and cherish our moment.