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Virgin Hills Cabernet Shiraz Merlot Malbec The Virgin Hills vineyard, elevated at 600 metres, is located at Lauriston, 15 km west of Kyneton, Victoria in the Macedon Ranges. The land was originally earmarked for cherries, but the meagre soils and marginal climate made it unsuitable. The climate here is cool with predominantly winter rainfall and a dry growing season. It gets very cold with snow and frost usual. The vineyard is planted to Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz, Merlot and Malbec on friable red/brown soils over moisture-holding red clay. The vines, planted in 1968, are all dry grown on steep north-facing slopes to reduce exposure to spring frosts by maximising air drainage.

Each grape variety is picked, vinified and matured separately to maximise final blending options. The Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec see partial barrel fermentation to increase complexity and to mesh new oak characters into the wine. After fermentation, the wine is matured in approximately 50% new and seasoned French oak.

Virgin Hills has a low input organic philosophy. This wine captured the imagination of wine drinkers in the 1980s, though its marginal vineyard site has ensured wines of varying quality. In a good vintage the wine can be excellent. They are restrained styles with blackcurrant/cedar aromas and a compact palate structure. After a disastrous period of ownership under the failed public company Vincorp, Virgin Hills was purchased by Michael Hope a vigneron from the Lower Hunter Valley. Only 1500-2500 bottles are made by this single wine producer. The secondary market still looks favourably on Virgin Hills, although there is much to do before it can achieve its former glory. Perhaps global warming will help. Andrew Caillard MW, Langton's